I am writing this post from Birmingham, Alabama. I usually write from my home in the NYC suburbs. I’ve been on the road since July 1st, visiting the deep south, a part of the country I’ve never seen before. I’ve got five more days before I reintroduce myself to my wife, our son and our dog and sleep in my bed again.
The impetus for this trip was my acceptance into the National Endowment for the Humanities (NEH) workshop with the intriguing title “The Most Southern Place on Earth: Music, Culture and History in the Mississippi Delta. The workshop is held at Delta State University in Cleveland, Mississippi (Mississippi has to be the most fun-to-type word in the English language!).
I have visited Charlottesville, VA, Asheville, NC, Memphis, TN, and now Birmingham. Next stop in Knoxville, TN, then Richmond, VA before heading home.
I am learning an incredible amount, so much so that I’m having a hard time processing it all. I’ve toured Monticello, Graceland and William Faulkner’s house. I saw thousands of acres of corn, soybeans and rice growing in the Mississippi Delta where cotton was king for decades. I’ve been to art museums in Asheville and Birmingham, the Cotton Museum and the Stax Records museums in Memphis, and Vulcan Park in Birmingham. I stood on the balcony in Memphis where Martin Luther King, Jr. was killed and looked out at that balcony from the window next to the one the shooter used. I visited Fannie Lou Hamer’s gravesite, a Chinese cemetery, a Black cemetery, what may or may not be where Robert Johnson is buried and the likely crossroads at which he is alleged to have sold his soul to the devil so he could be a great blues guitarist.
I visited Po Monkey’s, the last rural juke joint in America and met Monkey, the farm hand who owns it. I listened to two musical lectures about the blues, then went to Red’s Lounge, a neighborhood blues club in Clarksdale, MS to hear the real thing.
I’ve tasted baked catfish, fried catfish, fried sauerkraut, fried okra, fried pickles, koolikles – pickles marinated in cherry Koolaid, and more styles of BBQ ribs than I knew existed.
I visited one of the last Jewish synagogues in the Delta and met the man struggling to keep it alive. I saw the 16th St. Baptist Church where a bombing in 1963 took the lives of four young girls and spent a couple of hours touring the Civil Rights Institute across the street.
Here are some of the things I’ve learned:
Fried pickles are better than Koolaid pickles, but Koolaid pickles are better than you might imagine they are.
The Mississippi Delta is not only the most southern place on earth, it is also the flattest.
People in the south are, at least on the surface, much more friendly than those in NY. They are warm, gracious and generous.
Mississippi has more Black elected officials than any other state, but there are still those who would like the segregation laws reinstated.
Many cities in the south put a lot of effort into making their downtowns beautiful with parks, plantings, sculpture and the like. Memphis is not one of them.
When it rains in the south, it REALLY rains. I’ve driven through downpours where I would have pulled off the road if there had been somewhere to pull off, and I’ve walked through downpours where I could not see where my next step would take me.
My PLN (PRofessional Learning Network) was, once again, a great resource. I’ve had people show me around, recommend activities, suggest dining options and otherwise guide my travels.
The blues did not originate in Chicago, Memphis or anywhere between those two points.
I learned what a diddley bow is and how to make one. I am going to make one for my school library. I have no talent to play it, though.
Farming is hard work. So is steelmaking.
Independent bookstores are hanging in there in Asheville and in Oxford, Mississippi.
Asheville is very dog-friendly. It is also very gay-friendly. If there is a connection, it is called love.
Downtown ballparks are more fun than those not downtown. Memphis’s AutoZone Park is beautiful. I’m also going to games in Knoxville and Richmond, but those stadiums are not downtown.
During an ill-advised five-mile drive down a gravel road cutting through private farmland we saw a lot of corn plots labeled “experimental.” I’m not sure what those experiments are, but they may have produced large aggressive bugs that flew at 15-mph next to my car for almost three miles.
If Mississippi is in need of a state bird, I nominate the dragonfly. Dragonflies are cool and the Delta is the dragonfly capitol of the world.
Apparent;y the Delta State University bookstore never thought of placing their school’s mascot on a cook’s apron even though that would seem to be the perfect place to show off the “fighting okra.”
The south apparently does not believe in vegetables. The most common side dish with BBQ seems to be white bread, with french fries running a close second.
Grits get tiring after a while, but biscuits are a great excuse for having peppery sausage gravy.
I am sure that over time these superficial learnings and impressions will be augmented or replaced by deeper understandings. This will happen because I will have the time to process and reflect upon my experiences. But as I sit here in my hotel, with my stomach growling for dinner, I feel like what I am sure many of my students feel. Overwhelmed, tired, hungry and thirsty.
It is good to be reminded that our students need to be fed, to have their thirsts slaked, to have their own PLN to show them love and support, and to have time to process all that their sponge-like brains soak up.
I’m glad that you are taking your time with your road trip, and I wish we had done the same! Enjoy your time in Richmond. It’s hot, hot, hot in this part of VA right now, but I know you can find some shade.
Thanks, Michelle. I wish I had more time explore this fascinating area. OI wanted to go to Montgomery and Selma, Biloxi and Little Rock, Nashville and elsewhere. Perhaps I’ll have the opportunity to return someday.
I think you have described “my Delta” perfectly. So neat to see what others think about my town (Cleveland) and alma mater (Delta State)! Safe travels!
It’s wonderful you have had a chance to continue to explore the South after we all disbanded. It was a grand adventure and I learned so much! Thanks for being a part of it and for sharing your thoughts while on the road. Hopefully our paths will cross again some day in NYC. I return with my daughter in late August. I will keep your information and give you a call if we get time. We will be on the apartment “hunt.” I remember fondly the advice you gave me! 🙂
I enjoyed following your road trip on Facebook (while I was stuck in the blazing heat of Phoenix). Glad you had a great experience.